Hervé Barmasse
Mountaineer and outdoors passionate

Home Country: Italy

Hervé Barmasse is the only climber to have soloed the 1,500m South Face of the Matterhorn. He also conquered unclimbed and what were considered as unscalable routes such as his first ascent of 6,970m Beka Brakai Chhok in Pakistan and the smooth granite walls of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia.

Hervé defines new frontier of solo climbing.

Career Highlights:

2014

                Matterhorn - First winter enchainment of the four Matterhorn ridges.  He made the enchainment alone. 

2013

                Patagonia - Winter season - First winter ascent of Cerro Pollone and First ascent of Colmillos middle and nord.

2012

                Pakistan, Sing Gang Glacier/Snow Lake area. 3 First ascent of the mountain. First ascent and traverse of Muky peak 6330 m, first ascent and descent of the mountain 5966 m on the left bank of Sing Gang Glacier and first ascent of a easy and hidden peak of Solu Tower Group.

2011

                Matterhorn South Face -  Hervé Barmasse opened a new route alone up the great pillar located on the SouthEast face of Matterhorn. No one prior Barmasse had climbed directly this overhanging wall.

2010

                Matterhorn South Face – New route opened with his father Marco: The Barmasse Couloir.

2008

                Patagonia – Cerro Piergiorgio – First ascent of the West face: “La Ruta de lo Hermano”

                Pakistan – Beka Brakai Chhok, 6940m. – First ascent of the mountain in Alpin Style -

2007

                Matterhorn - First solo ascent of the South Face of Matterhorn following  the “Direttissima” route.

                Matterhorn - First solo ascent of the “Spigolo dei Fiori”  route

2006

                Patagonia – Cerro San Lorenzo (3706 m) – New route on the north face: “Caffé Cortado” (ED, 1200 m)

2005

                Pakistan – Chogolisa Shield – New route: “Up and Down” (grade 6c/7a and A1, 800 m)

                Pakistan – New mixed ice route on an unclimbed peak (5800m): “Fast and Furious” (700 m)

                Pakistan – First complete solo ascent of an unclimbed peak (approx. 6000 m) on the Farol Peak ridge

                Matterhorn - First solo ascent of the Deffeyes route in under four hours

2004

                Pakistan – Sheep Peak (6300 m) – new route

                Pakistan – Chogolisa Shield (approx. 5700 m) – New alpine-style “Luna Caprese” route (grade 6c max, 1000 m)

                Matterhorn - First solo ascent and of the “Casarotto-Grassi” route

MOUNTAINEERING AWARDS

Award Sport and Civility 2015

Adventure Award 2014

Luigi Leoni Award 2011

Paolo Consiglio Award 2010

Monzino Award 2010

SAT Award - Mountaineering category 2010

Paolo Consiglio Award 2008

Saint Vincent Grolla d'Or Award 2007

Paolo Consiglio Award 2006

Paolo Consiglio Award 2005

AWARD – Film “Non così lontano” (NOT SO FAR)


Best mountaineering film award – MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL DOMZALE – SLOVENIA - APRIL 2013

Award best mountain film – XVI VERTICAL FESTIVAL FILM COMPETITION, MOSCOW – RUSSIA - APRIL 2013

Public award – CERVINO CINEMOUNTAIN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL – VALTOURNENCHE, ITALY - AUGUST 2012

Award best mountain film - FESTIVAL INTERNACIONALE DE CINE DE MONTANA - USHUAIA SHH - TIERRA DEL FUEGO, ARGENTINA - AUGUST 2013

Award best mountain film - INKIEST MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL - LIMA PERU’ - AUGUST 2013

AWARD – Film “Linea continua”

Best Short Film – 4th FESTIVAL INTERNACIONAL DE CINE DE MONTANA USHUAIA SHH - Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina - AUgUst 2011 –

First prize - INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION video makers - AWARD TeleTicino 2011- FESTIVAL OF LUGANO, SWITZERLAND - SePtembER 2011

Special jury mention – MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL DOMZALE – SLOVENIA - APRIL 2012

Italian alpin club award - MEMORIAL GIORGIO GUALCO – “TERRE ALTE… EMOZIONI DAL MONDO” – INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL – MILANO, ITALY - OCTOBER 2012

Special jury mention, section “Paesaggi d'Italia” - OROBIE FILM FESTIVAL – Bergamo, ITALY – FEBRUARY 2011

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